Archive for the Category »I’m trying to help! «

03
Jul 2010

Pre-Washing Fabric: Do I gotta?

Short answer to this question is yes. Longer answer is maybe. I know pre-washing is kind of suck. You go to the store, get some lovely fabric and want to go home with it and make something with it right now! But trust me, while you can get away with NOT pre-washing for some things, for other stuff you’ll kick yourself if you don’t.

Why pre-wash? Isn’t new fabric clean already?
Yep, new fabric is generally nice and clean – unless it’s a factory second or has been fondled by grubby hands in the store. Pre-washing isn’t about cleaning your new fabric, it’s about making sure your fabric is ready to use.

New fabric may have a number of treatments applied to keep it nice and crisp while it’s processed, these need to be removed. You might notice with cotton especially, the new stuff feels slightly stiff. You need to wash that treatment out before you can sew with it.

The other reason for pre-washing is shrinkage. Most fabrics will shrink a little bit when they’re first washed – you don’t want that first washing to be AFTER you’ve slaved over a shirt or pants because your perfectly fitting clothes will get a bit smaller.

Finally, any dyed fabric still has surface dye – this is the stuff that doesn’t rinse all the way out. It’s much better to get rid of this first so that your new whatever doesn’t disappoint you by dying all your underwear purple.

Okay, so when do I have to pre-wash?
If you’re making anything that will need washing after it’s made, pre-wash your fabric. That includes clothes, childrens’ toys, soft furnishings, quilts – basically anything that at any point you’ll want to throw in the machine or hand wash, you’ll save yourself a lot of frustration by pre-washing your fabric.  Even if it’s something that will only be surface washed with a damp cloth – get rid of the surface dye before you make it up.

And when can I get away with not pre-washing?
Softies for adults, fabric you’re going to embroider and frame. Anything that’s not likely to get grubby and need cleaning, basically. I tend not to pre-wash when doing applique for framing or making toys for adults.  For applique on clothes – yeah pre-wash that shit.

Can I pre-wash anyway?
Can and frankly, probably should. I’m just lazy. If in doubt, wash it, basically.

So you have the why, you have the when. The how is pretty easy. For fat quarters I tend to hand wash in a bucket because they fray so much in the machine. For bigger pieces, I just toss them in the machine. Usually with the towels because it’s a waste of a cycle otherwise (save water!) and because if there’s any loose dye flying around the towels catch it (makes for interesting towels sometimes – don’t do this if you’ve thoughtfully matched your towels to your decor). Washing instructions for your fabric are on the tag on the end of the bolt you bought it from, if there’s anything more complicated than machine wash, might be worth taking notes. Remember that those instructions also apply to your finished garment or item.

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22
May 2010

Cross Stitching Tips.

If you’ve never stitched before, a big kit or chart can seem a bit daunting in the pants, but never fear! I have some tips for joo. They are not endorsed by any one but me, so if your Auntie Millicent says “What are you doing it that way for? Any fool knows that’s wrong!” you can say “Some doofus on the internet said it was okay!”

Always bear in mind I have a slapdash way of doing things. Let’s get movin’

1. Pick charts and kits that appeal to you.
That might seem like “duh” but really it’s kinda important. Unless you’re making a gift specifically for someone else, it’s best to stick to things you want to stitch. Even if you find it on special for 50 cents, there’s no need to force yourself through a dull kit. I’d still buy that though, for the fabric. I’m just sayin’

2. All the top arms of your Xs should go the same way.
Generally, you’ll see cross stitching instructions telling you do to the bottom arm left to right – / and the top arm right to left – \. That’s pretty traditional, but you don’t have to do it that way if you’re more comfortable doing it the other way around BUT – and this IS important – no matter which way you do it, all your stitches should be worked the same way.  If you vary your top arms you’ll lose the smooth even look cross stitch has, and it will be a bit less pretty.

3. Mark your chart!
If you think you’ll be working your chart again at some point, photocopy it first then mark it as you go. If not, just go wild on the original. I like to use a highlighter or yellow felt tip to mark the stitches I’ve done.  It’s a lot easier, for me, if I can still see the symbols under the markings. Otherwise I feel like I’m working blind when I change colours or start new rows. But however you do it, drawing over the stitches you’ve just done will help you keep your place.

4. Start smallish, but be brave.
Quite a few of the Cross Stitch magazines include a free mini kit, or you can pick up mini kits at craft stores for a few dollars. If you’ve never cross stitched before, these are a great way to jump in. The projects can usually be done in a couple of hours and you’ll get a feel for how it all works.

After that, you really can go for about anything you’d like to do.  I mean, I wouldn’t suggest a 18 page chart for project number two, but you could certainly do it. Take your time, enjoy the process and you will get it done.  What I’m saying here is don’t feel you “can’t” just because you haven’t been stitching long. Of course you can. Dive in!

5. Don’t be afraid of UFOs.
We all have them. Lurking. UnFinished Objects in the closet. Aieeee! Fact is, sometimes we get bored with a piece, especially if it’s large. Don’t feel you have to slave through it to the end. Fold it away for a while, work on something else, and get it out later when you’re fresh and ready to work on it. You’ll enjoy the process a whole lot more.

6. Buy the best you can afford
Fabric tends to be the pricy side of any embroidery, as the threads are generally around a dollar or so. You don’t have to buy linen fabric and linen thread, but it’s worth it to get the best you can afford. Cheap Aida in particular is horrible to work with – you’ll strike it in the cheaper kits. It feels rough. Off brand threads are fine for whipping up a card but for larger pieces, and pieces you’ll want to frame or gift, it’s worth buying DMC or Anchor or another big brand. You know they’re colourfast and you know they’ll work up well. Again, you’ll enjoy the stitching more.

7. You don’t actually need a lot of kit.
I’m not saying it’s not FUN to accumulate a million bits and pieces, because it totally is. However, if you’re put off by walking down the embroidery aisle at your local craft shop thinking you need one of everything, you don’t. All you really need is some hoops or frames in various sizes (to keep your fabric taut while you sew on it), a pair of scissors and some needles. You also need a good light source – a daylight bulb is ideal, but you honestly don’t need anything other than a nice bright lamp or overhead light.  Pinky swear it.

That’s about all that springs to mind. Oh, apart from letting your needle hang.

8. Let your needle hang.
“What the hell are you talking about?” Do this often. Once you push the needle through to the back of the work, every so often let it hang. As you work, the thread will twist and your stitches will start to look narrower. Dangling your needle lets the threads untwist and returns you to nice, fulsome stitches.

See? Not demented.

Okay this is  a SUPER long post to not have any pictures in it, so here’s a pic of my current WIP.

I highlighted the dog hair for ya coz I didn’t want you to miss it. You’re welcome.

It’s a frog, btw. The WIP I mean. Ribbit!

Category: Embroidery, I'm trying to help!, WIP  Tags: ,  2 Comments